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Machine Needles

EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MACHINE NEEDLES:

  

This little part of any sewing machine is one of the most important factors in creating a well made garment, beautiful quilt or embroidery and keeping your machine running smoothly.

 

First attempts to invent a machine for sewing were unsuccessful, mainly because a hand type needle with the eye at the thick end was used.

In 1846, American Elias Howe created a needle with the eye at the tip of the needle, which lead to the first sewing machine featuring a curved grooved needle with the eye at the tip. Two years later, John A. Bradshaw created a straight grooved needle with the eye at the tip of the needle which set the future for sewing machines.

Today’s sewing machine needle is an instrument of precision and the performance of any sewing machine is only as good as the needle being used.
Today, the needles manufactured for domestic machines would total about 100 different types and sizes – hard to believe, isn’t it?

Sewing machine needles are produced in different “systems”. A system is a series of needles all of the same general length, eye position and shank (the fixing end of the needle). Each system is then produced with a selection of different points, various sizes and other special variations.
For industrial sewing machines there are more than 500 different systems.

For modern domestic sewing machines there is only one system which suits all brands of today’s sewing machines. This system is called 705/130, or sometimes just 705 for short.

Most of the machine needles sold in Australia are made either in Europe or Japan. Most of the European factories are in Germany. All European and Japanese needles are made according to very strict standards and quality controls. These needles are made using a special high carbon steel. The manufacturing involves some 33 different processes to produce just one single machine needle. The needles are then checked electronically and manually by eye to ensure that they are perfect. Which brand of needles you prefer is up to you, but choosing the right type is more complicated as there are many different point types and sizes.

As for the brand, we recommend SCHMETZ needles available from our store.

RIGHT NEEDLE FOR THE JOB…..

Needle Sizes:

There are two numbering systems – the European (based on the metric system) and the American. Most needle packages list both sizes. American 8 = European 60 and it goes as follows  9/65; 10/70, 11/75, 12/80, 14/90, 16/100, 18/110, 19/120.

 

If you want to check if the needle is the correct size you need, cut a piece of thread about 25 cm log and thread it through the needle. Hold the thread vertical and fairly taut. Then, from the top, spin the needle. It should slip down the thread. If it doesn’t, you need a larger size needle.

 

Always start with a new needle for every sewing project. If stitching problems occur, change the needle. A dull or burred needle can cause snags and puckering. It is suggested to check for burrs by putting the needle through a pair of nylons or pantyhose. It should go through smoothly. If it doesn’t, the needle should be thrown out.

 

Types of needles:

-       Universal Point Needle – For most woven and knit fabrics. For use in all household machines that require a flat shank. The point is slightly rounded, yet sharp enough to pierce tightly woven fabrics and rounded enough to push between the yarns of a knitted fabric. Sizes 8/60 to 19/120.

-     Sharp/Microtex Needle – Sharp point for stitching woven fabrics including silk and the newest microfiber fabrics. Use especially for top stitching and edge stitching. Sizes 8/60, 10/70, 12/80, 14/90.

   

-       Ball Point Needle – Point is lightly rounded. Use for stitching knit fabrics. Helps to eliminate runs. Sizes 10/70 to 16/100.

-       Jeans/Denim Needle – Very sharp point and stiff shank. Use for stitching jeans, canvas and multiple layers of fabric. Sizes:  10/70 to 18/110.

-       Stretch Needle – Designed for stitching knit fabrics that contain spandex or lycra.. This needle has a deeper scarf that prevents skipped stitches. May not be compatible for all machines. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90.

-       Top Stitch Needle – Extra sharp point with an extra large eye and a large groove to accommodate top stitching thread. Use for topstitching. Sizes : 12/80, 14/90 and 16/100.

  

-       Leather Needle – Slight cutting point for stitching through leather, suede and vinyl. Never use on woven or knit fabrics. Sizes: 12/8 to 18/110.

-       Hemstitch/Wing Needle – Point has wide metal wings on the sides to create large holes in tightly-woven fabrics, such as linen and batiste. Use for hemstitching, heirloom embroidery and other decorative stitching. Sizes: HEM/100 and HEM/120

-      Quilting Needle – Tapered needle with a sharp point for stitching through multiple layers of fabric and intersecting seams. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90

-       Machine Embroidery Needle – Designed with a special scarf and a large eye to prevent shredding and breakage when sewing with rayon and special machine embroidery threads. Sizes: 11/75 and 14/90

-       Metallic Needle – Special scarf, large eye and the large groove prevent shredding of delicate metallic thread during stitching. Size 12/80

-       Self-Threading Needle – General purpose needle with a slip-in threading slot for those who have difficulty threading needles. Sizes 12/80 and 14/90

-       Spring Needle – For free-hand machine embroidery, quilting and monogramming. Designed with a wire cage around it that acts like a presser foot only when the needle enters the fabric, the cage rises. This makes stitching easier. Universal, Sizes 10/70, 12/80 and 14/90.

-       Overlocker  Needle – Sharp point suitable for all fabrics. Sizes BLX (2-11,2-14) and DCX1 (2-11, 3-140. Choose the system recommended by your machine manufacturer.

 

 

 

Special Needles

 

Double Needle – Constructed with two needles on a crossbar from a single shaft. Can be used with zigzag machines that thread front to back. Sews two rows of stitching at the same time. Used for heirloom sewing, decorative stitching and hemming. The space between the needles varies and is measured in millimetres. Sizes 1.6/70 to 4.0/100.

Triple Needle – Three needles on a single shaft. Stitches three rows at the same time. For decorative stitching. Sizes:2.5 and 3.0.

Double Denim Needle – Size: 4.0/100.

Double Stretch Needle – Sizes: 2.5/75 and 4.0/75.

Double Embroidery Needle – Sizes 2.0/75 and 3.0/75.

Double Metallic Needle – Size: 2.5/80

Double hemstitch needle – One wing and one regular needle for hemming of heirloom projects.

Extra Wide Double needle – For use in machines at least 6.0 mm

 

 

 

 

 

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